I used to think that Goethe had written the most boring stories about Sicily - till I met him in a dark mysterious tavern downtown Palermo. The Etna did not want to hear of calming - therefore the star cellist Giovanni Solima had come to challenge him. On top of the Norman cathedral in Monreale a 'Muezzin' would shout a poem by Dylan Thomas into the land that appears like a cake laying astray in the sea.