Thirty-nine years ago, an earthquake destroyed the Sicilian mountain village Gibellina. Hundreds of people died. The survivors eked out a life in meagre barracks for 15 years. Many left the country. The city was rebuilt 25 km away as a lifeless bedroom community with modern, shoddy architecture and an over-abundance of modern art: an oversized, open-air museum at the border of a failed vision with increasing social end economic problems.